Does white chocolate remind you of Christmas? That cosy,
nostalgic feeling of gazing over soft, snow-laced gardens while you lie
snuggled up in a blanket that’s bigger than a whale’s overcoat?
Well, it shouldn’t. Because that would just be weird.
Plus, trudging through slush would make a walk to the Co-op particularly
unpleasant.
The brown paper bag I bought for £1.10 did not contain a
quart of scotch, rather five absolutely enormous cookies (think the Empire
State Building – only bigger and less grey).
Each biscuit was a gorgeous golden yellow, as though
baked in the sunshine of the south of France. In a welcome relief for
supermarket produce, the cookies were formed in an infinite array of shapes –
at least appearing to showcase themselves as having been lovingly baked in a
stone oven by some plump, ruddy-faced farmer’s wife in deepest Somerset (as
opposed to mass-produced chemicals moulded into perfect circles).
Quite how the cookies survived being placed into the bag
is another matter: they were so thin that even a supermodel’s waist would have
been less brittle. The delicate casing did, however (surprisingly), manage to
hold a plentiful number of giant white chocolate chunks, which were perfectly
creamy.
The texture of the biscuits were somewhat unusual: the
edges were tough and hard enough to start a fight in a Liverpool pub, whereas
the centre was so soft that it would have made a pug seem like a dragon.
Because of this contrast, taste was a difficult issue to
measure. The outer parts of the biscuits had a nice, wheat-scented flavour that
matched very well with the white chocolate; but, despite being lovely and soft,
the centres had a strangely excessive sugary and salty taste that just seemed
like undercooked dough.
There was no risk of not consuming the whole packet,
though – even after noticing that each cookie is massively filling.
Big and bonkers, but suspiciously salty… I really did
want Co-op’s white chocolate cookies to be the best – but they just weren’t.
Call me salty, but it’s 3* out of 5.
Review by JAMES LEWIS
Wanderer, wonderer and editor of the Chocolate Dissection blog (which will ideally melt hearts rather than brains). Reliable with sarcasm, less so with a scalpel. Twitter: @IdeasJimbound
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